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And with a snap, all things summer get stored in the memory...
Increasingly beautiful sunsets.
Air, mountains, grass, oceans (for us urbanites)
Low-power A.C. : ( (good riddance)
As I write, a powerful breeze, slightly tropical, gusts through the living room window, announcing its entrance.
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It will be four years in this space next month. In my kitchen, this summer, I got extra counter space--a seemingly simple thing that now seems inconceivable was never here.
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One night, early-June, a few days shy of turning 31, I was talking to Bryan Calvert, chef at James in Brooklyn. It was a celebration of his cookbook. It was a lively evening, with delicious appetizers and cocktails, and a cookbook so big and pretty it took me weeks to make anything from it (more below..)
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"I'm not good at these things," Bryan said. Like most people of his ilk, it was the process he fixated on. Our conversation centered on the home-cook versus the restaurant cook: a topic I am increasingly interested in. Mainly: how we, as home-cooks, approach our choice to cook, with optimization, like restaurant chefs must (which is why I am pouring over this other book).
That evening, arriving home, I saw the mountain of hand-washed dishes and odds and ends I'd left out on the towel mat to dry. Oops, I should have put them away before leaving. I went to do so and with a few swift motions, a pyrex glass had collided with a ramekin, shattered, danced down from the shelf, and I found my front wrist freshly sliced, the glass shards on the floor. Husband to the rescue--simultaneously caring and annoyed: I was tipsy but it hit me: I was not respecting my space enough. The next day, in the fastest moments I've clocked at Ikea, I bought a kitchen cart.
Sometimes you need a push.
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We celebrated our first year of marriage this month. We ate the last of our cake on the clearest day in August, and for dinner I roasted branzino, simply. Jersey Tomatoes, those August gems, with Chef Bryan's treatment-- have made many an appearance. The secret ingredient? Gin.
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TOMATO SALAD
Adapted from BROOKLYN RUSTIC
notes: bryan uses more tomatoes but I've scaled this down.
one large tomato (preferably heirloom)
sea salt and pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
1 teaspoon gin
2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese
fresh dill
1 tablespoon minced shallot
method: core and slice the tomatoes crosswise--so the core is at the center of each slice. place in a shallow bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper. add the olive oil, and gin, layer in shallots, and toss gently. Cover and let sit for 20-30 minutes, tossing after 15. Plate tomatoes then top with feta and dill and the juices that have accumulated from the tomatoes.
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